The Outer Hebrides without a car | Isle of Barra, Eriskay, and South Uist

The Outer Hebrides is a remote chain of islands off Scotland’s west coast that offers an escape into breathtaking and untouched landscapes. With dramatic coastlines, white sandy beaches, and rolling hills, these islands are rich in history and wildlife. And you don’t need a car to get to and around them! In this blog post, I will share my solo trip to Barra, Eriskay, and South Uist by public transport.

I’m a solo traveller who doesn’t drive and has been exploring Scotland and the rest of the world by public transport for about six years now. I love sharing my adventures to hopefully help and encourage more people to try this way of travel.

There are loads of benefits to travelling the Scottish islands without a car:

• Public transport is usually cheaper than renting a car.

• Travelling by public transport allows you to interact with locals, whether you're chatting with people on a bus or getting tips from ferry workers.

• Driving through Scotland’s winding rural roads can be challenging for those unfamiliar with the area, especially in the busy months. Public transport lets you sit back, relax, and enjoy the views, with no need to worry about navigation, parking, or road conditions.

• It reduces your carbon footprint compared to driving a car. Scotland's trains, buses, and ferries allow you to explore its landscapes in a more environmentally conscious way, aligning with eco-tourism goals.

• You can enjoy whisky tastings at distilleries without needing a designated driver.

This is a paid partnership with CalMac Ferries, however, all opinions stated in this blog post are my own.

Oban, the “Gateway to the Isles”

As the "Gateway to the Isles," Oban is a bustling coastal town on Scotland's west coast that plays a vital role in connecting travellers to the islands. Oban’s ferry terminal is a hub for the CalMac ferries, which take you to the Outer Hebrides. From here, you can sail to the Isle of Barra, the starting point for exploring Barra, Eriskay, and South Uist. The ferry crossing is an experience in itself, offering incredible views of the Scottish coastline and islands along the way.

Known for its vibrant harbour and stunning views, Oban is easily accessible by public transport, with regular trains from Glasgow offering scenic journeys through the Highlands. If you're travelling by bus, the journey is equally picturesque and you can book a bus with Citylink. The train and bus stations are both located just a two-minute walk from the ferry terminal.

Before boarding your ferry, Oban offers plenty to explore:

• Oban Distillery: One of Scotland’s oldest whisky distilleries—a must-visit for whisky lovers.

• McCaig's Tower: A Romanesque structure on a hill above the town, offering panoramic views over the harbour and surrounding islands.

• Pulpit Hill: Just a short walk from Oban’s town centre, it offers some of the most stunning panoramic views over the town and across to the surrounding islands. From the summit, you can see Oban, the Isle of Kerrera, Mull, and Lismore, making it a perfect spot for photography or simply soaking in the breathtaking scenery, especially at sunset.

• Food: Oban is famed for its fresh seafood, with restaurants and stalls serving locally caught fish, shellfish, and more. There are also plenty of vegan-friendly options, such as The Oban Fish & Chip Shop, which serves vegan haggis.

For accommodation, you can stay at Don Muir Guest House, which is only a 15-minute walk to the ferry terminal.

Isle of Barra

The Isle of Barra is a small island in the Outer Hebrides, packed with charm and stunning views. You can take the ferry from Oban to Castlebay, which takes around five hours.

The ferry provides spacious seating, including both indoor lounges and outdoor decks, so you can relax and enjoy the scenic views of the islands and the sea. They also have dedicated areas for passengers travelling with dogs or other small animals. There’s a restaurant onboard offering hot and cold dishes, including vegetarian and vegan-friendly options, and a café with drinks and light snacks.

Getting Around

The local bus is operated by Aurora Trans Co., and you can find the timetable online, at your accommodation, or at the visitor centre, Buth Bharraigh. The bus ticket prices are affordable and vary depending on distance; for example, when I took a 20-minute bus from Castlebay to Ardmhor, which is on the other side of the island, it cost me £2. You can also ask the driver to drop you off at spots that are not official bus stops, as long as you inform him when you get on.

Accommodation

The ferry terminal is only a few minutes' walk from a variety of accommodations, including the cosy Tigh Na Mara B&B and Dunard Lodge & Hostel, both of which offer stunning views of Castlebay.

Things to Do

• Buth Bharraigh is the community shop and visitor information centre located in Castlebay, across from the ferry terminal. The shop sells locally produced food, a refill station with grains and herbs, including a build-your-own-muesli station, books, and handmade crafts, which are great for gifts and souvenirs.

• Perched on a small rocky island in Castlebay, Kisimul Castle is Barra’s iconic mediaeval stronghold. It’s usually accessible by a short boat ride, but when I visited, it was closed to allow for conservation works. However, you can still admire it from Castlebay, and it adds to the stunning views during sunset.

• Barra Airport is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights use a tidal beach as the runway. There’s also a little café to enjoy some refreshments with a view. It’s really fun to watch the plane land, and there’s a bus that waits for the passengers; so once you watch it, you can get on the bus and continue to another destination.

• Traigh Eais is a stunning beach with sand dunes where you can often see cute cows wandering around. It’s right across from the airport, only a few minutes' walk.

• Visit the ruins of Cille Bharra, a mediaeval church and graveyard that’s associated with the island’s namesake, St. Barr. It’s a peaceful place with lovely views.

• Heaval is Barra’s highest peak at 383 metres. The hike is moderate but rewarding, offering panoramic views of the island and, on clear days, the surrounding Hebrides.

• Barra offers excellent cycling and walking opportunities. The island’s circular road takes you through coastal landscapes, villages, and hills. You can also enjoy shorter walking routes that offer great views and encounters with wildlife. Check out Walkhighlands for more information on the different route options.

Food

There are quite a few restaurants and cafés around the island, and I was pleasantly surprised by the delicious vegan-friendly options they had. While I was there, I visited the Castlebay Hotel, Craigard Hotel, and Garadh Café.

To get to the next islands, you can take the bus to Ardmhor terminal and then take the ferry from there to the Isle of Eriskay.

Eriskay and South Uist

I am grouping both islands together here as they are connected by a causeway, and you can visit both by bus during one trip. They are part of the Uist islands, which include Berneray, North Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay. On this trip, I only did Eriskay and South Uist; however, if you have more time, you can visit all of them during a trip, without a car.

The ferry journey from Castlebay to Eriskay is only 40 minutes, and the ticket costs £3.65 one way.

Getting Around

The local bus is operated by DA Travel, and the bus to South Uist waits at Eriskay ferry terminal for when passengers arrive. You can find the bus timetables here.

Another great way to get around the islands is by renting an e-bike from Hebridean E-Bikes. They have flexible hiring options and can deliver the bike to you.

Accommodation

For my first night, I stayed at the Storm Pods in Lochboisdale, which was one of my favourite stays I’ve ever had. My pod was super cosy, and the view from it was breathtaking. I loved how peaceful and secluded it was, but at the same time, it was only a few minutes' walk to the village.

For my second night on South Uist, I stayed at the lovely Borrodale Hotel in Daliburgh, which is seven minutes by bus from Lochboisdale or 15 minutes cycling. The location was great for exploring, and I loved breakfast in the morning.

Things to Do

• Eriskay is known for its pivotal role in the Jacobite uprisings, and you can walk along the beach where Bonnie Prince Charlie first set foot on Scottish soil in 1745. This white-sand beach is perfect for a peaceful walk, surrounded by stunning turquoise waters.

• Eriskay is also famous for its rare native pony breed, the Eriskay Pony, one of the last surviving Hebridean horse breeds. These ponies roam freely on the island, and spotting them in their natural habitat is a special experience.

• Eriskay Beach is another beautiful beach with turquoise waters, and it’s a few minutes' walk from the Am Politician, named after the famous shipwreck, SS Politician, which ran aground off Eriskay’s coast in 1941. The ship was carrying thousands of bottles of whisky, and the incident famously inspired the novel and film Whisky Galore. It’s a great spot to enjoy a meal, some drinks, and soak up the local culture.

• The Father Allan Trail is a walking route dedicated to Father Allan MacDonald, a Catholic priest and Gaelic scholar who served on Eriskay in the late 19th century. He was known for his work in preserving Gaelic culture and language, as well as his deep connection with the local community.

• Kildonan Museum on South Uist provides insights into the island's history, culture, and heritage, showcasing artifacts, photographs, and exhibitions on local life. There is also a cafe with beautiful views of the surrounding hills

• Kildonan Beach is a beautiful stretch of sandy shore where you can see different sea birds such as gulls and waders. It’s a 30-minute walk from Kildonan Museum or 8 minutes by bike.

FOOD

While I was there, I had food at Lochboisdale Hotel, the Borrodale Hotel, Croft & Cuan, Kildonan Museum, and Am Politician, and they all had vegan friendly options.

The Outer Hebrides offer a unique blend of stunning landscapes, rich history, and vibrant local culture. The locals were extremely nice to me and I felt welcomed the whole time I was on the islands and I even got offered lifts by them instead of waiting for the bus sometimes. Whether you're exploring the pristine beaches, hiking the scenic trails, or learning about the islands' heritage, there’s something for everyone. And travelling by public transport allows you to take in the scenery at a relaxed pace and appreciate the connections between the islands. If you're looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure in Scotland, these islands provide an authentic experience that highlights the beauty and diversity of the Hebrides

You can check out Visit Outer Hebrides and CalMac to plan your trip to the islands

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Things to do in Fife without a car

The Kingdom of Fife is situated on the East Coast of Scotland, and is just a bus or train away from Edinburgh and other parts of Scotland. From cute fishing villages to colourful gardens to hidden waterfalls, there is something for everyone. In this post, I am sharing 3 day trip ideas that you can do by public transport in Fife, including Levenmouth, Kingsbarns, and Pittenweem and Anstruther, consisting of fun activities and vegan friendly food.

I have also written a post about the Fife 191 Route by public transport which includes some other lovely locations so make sure you take a look at that too (read here).

For this trip, I was based in Dunfermline so I started my journey from there each morning but you can easily get to these places from other locations in Scotland too. Stagecoach and Google Maps are great websites to plan your trips with. There are different ticket options to help save you money if you are planning to use the bus for a few days, such as day/week/month tickets.

This is a paid partnership with Welcome to Fife, however all opinions stated in this blog post are my own

Day Trip 1 - Levenmouth

The new Levenmouth rail link opened in June this year, allowing easier access from different parts of Scotland. I took the train from Dunfermline to Inverkeithing and then to Leven but you can also get a direct train from Edinburgh. The views along the way were beautiful.

Once I got off the train, I walked along the beach and then turned towards Silverburn Park. Had a stroll through the walled garden and it was such a lovely place to relax. Right next to the walled garden, there’s The Cottage Window Cafe where I had their toastie of the week which was naan and bhaji and was so grateful for the sunny day.

After lunch, I walked around 10 minutes up to Blacketyside Farm where you can pick your own strawberries and raspberries. They have loads of locally produced food in their shop and it was really hard not to buy everything!

I then followed the coastal trail which took around 40 minutes to Lower Largo and walked around admiring all the art outside the cottages. Lower Largo is also the birthplace of Alexander Selkirk, the real-life inspiration for Robinson Crusoe.

I stopped by The Aurrie, a cafe inside a converted church, and had some lentil soup, homemade iced tea and some vegan cake. They also have art by local artists and this is one of the few times I wish I wasn’t a digital nomad so I can buy all the cute mugs and decorations for my home. I then took the bus back to Leven and then the train to Dunfermline.

Day Trip 2 - Kingsbarns

I took the bus X59 to St Andrews Bus Station and then bus 95 towards Leven and got off at the bus stop “The Lodge” which is right outside the gates of Cambo Gardens. I walked on the woodland trail and followed the signs for about 10 minutes and arrived at the ticket office. The ticket cost £7.70 and you can spend a few hours there exploring the colourful garden.

There is also woodland and fairy trails which are worth doing while there.

I had some delicious food at the cafe which is in the old stables. I was very happy to see that the menu was vegetarian friendly and had loads of vegan options. I had a massive salad and a pea and mint soup and the ingredients are fresh from the garden.

I also had a vegan biscoff cake and some fresh mint tea and enjoyed the cosy atmosphere.

From the gardens, you can walk around 30 minutes along the beach to the Wild Scottish Sauna which was my next activity for the day. You can book a session online through their website. I booked the social sauna session but you can also book a private one as well as packages that include guided wild swimming or yoga. It’s located at Kingsbarns Beach Car Park so you can also get there by taking the bus 95 to “The Square” stop and walk 15 minutes. 

It felt amazing going for a swim in the sea and then running into the sauna repeating that for an hour. The sea view from the window was beautiful so I got to enjoy that while also chatting with some other people in the sauna. 

Right next to the sauna, there’s the Harbour Burger food truck and I had a vegan haggis burger which was perfect for after my swim and sauna session. After that, I walked 15 minutes up to the bus stop “The Square” and took bus 95 back to St Andrews and then a bus back to Dunfermline. This was such a wholesome solo date and I felt super relaxed during and after the trip. 

Day Trip 3 - Pittenweem and Anstruther

You can take the bus X60/X61 from Edinburgh towards St Andrews and get off at “Tollcross” at Pittenweem or “Harbour” at Anstruther if you want to go straight there. I went to The Cocoa Tree Shop and asked for the key to St Fillans Cave and then walked a few minutes down Cove Wynd to the cave. St Fillan was an Irish missionary during the 7th century and he spent most of his life as a hermit in the cave and that’s why Pittenweem means “place of the cave”.

After the cave, I took the key back to The Cocoa Tree Shop and had lunch there. I had a mixed bean soup made with cocoa and a vegan Belgian waffle with chocolate sauce and berries.

I walked around Pittenweem for a bit and then followed the coastal path for around 30 minutes to Anstruther. Once I got to Anstruther, I came across Dreel Halls and it happened to be an open day so I got to take a tour up the 16th century tower and learn about its history as well as see Ansruther from a different point of view. Make sure to check out the other Doors Open days in Fife for next year as you can visit historical buildings that are not usually open to the public.

From wildlife boat trips to the Isle of May (from Anstruther) to the Scottish Fisheries Museum to wild swimming in the tide pools, there’s much to do in the East Neuk of Fife, and there’s something for everyone. If you have time, you can also walk from Anstruther to Crail which is another beautiful village to visit.

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Travel Fife 191 by Public Transport - Day Trip Ideas

Fife 191, a new tourist route in the Kingdom of Fife has launched and there’s something for everyone. From fishing villages to castles to food and drink spots, you can visit all of the beautiful locations by public transport too! In this blog post, I will share with you 3 day trips I did by bus while in Fife as a solo traveller. Each day trip includes two destinations close to each other that you visit without a car, but if you have a car you could probably fit in more places in a day but hopefully this will give you some ideas where to visit.

For this trip, I was based in Dunfermline so I started my journey from there each morning but you can easily get to these places from other locations in Scotland too. Stagecoach and Google Maps are great websites to plan your trips with. There are different ticket options to help save you money if you are planning to use the bus for a few days, such as day/week/month tickets

Day trip 1 - Tentsmuir National Nature Reserve and St Andrews

I took the X24 bus from Dunfermline to Glenrothes which took around 30 minutes and then got the bus 42 to Tayport which took an hour. I then followed the signs and got to Tentsmuir. I walked along the beach and it was so beautiful as it was sunny and frosty and got to see a lot of wildlife including different birds and seals.

While you are there, you can also find boxes with litter pickers and bags to pick any litter you may find to help keep the area clean.

After exploring for a couple of hours, I took the bus 92 to St Andrews which took 40 minutes. Once I got there, I walked straight down to the beach as I was starving and I was really excited to finally visit The Cheesy Toast Shack. I was very happy to see they had vegan options so I got a vegan cheese toastie with pesto as well as a delicious biscoff hot chocolate and enjoyed them on a bench overlooking the sea and the surfers.

I walked past St Andrews Abbey, and the Castle and walked around for a bit, went into some of the local small businesses and then watched the sunset by the West Sands Beach.

I then took the bus X24 back to Dunfermline.

Day trip 2 - Falkland and Lindores Abbey Distillery

On my second day of exploring the new tourist route Fife 191, I took bus X24 to Glenrothes and then bus 64 to Falkland. I followed Google Maps and did the Maspie Den walk.

I walked for about 30 minutes and ended up at a really cool waterfall that you can walk behind. 

From there, I followed the signs to Pillars of Hercules which was about a 25 minute-walk and had a delicious vegetable curry and vegan shortbread and then had a look around their organic farm shop which has loads of plant-based products too. 

I walked 20 minutes back to Falkland, explored the town and had some tea at a cute little shop called Fayre Earth where I had a lovely chat with the owner about travel.

Before catching the bus, I filled up my water bottle at a refill tap across from Bruce Fountain and then took bus 36 towards Perth and got off at bus stop “Melville Place”. From there it’s a 5-minute walk to Lindores Abbey Distillery.

I did a tour and learned so many interesting facts about the history of the distillery, including the fact that it is the officially recognised site of the first recorded distillation of Scotch whisky, all the way back in 1494. 

After the tasting, I walked around the abbey ruins which date back to 1191 before catching the bus back home. 

Day trip 3 - Dunfermline and Culross

You can easily get to the ancient capital of Scotland, Dunfermline by bus from many places in Scotland, including:

Edinburgh - X55

Glasgow - X24/X27

Dundee - X54/Flixbus/Megabus

Perth - X56/Flixbus/Megabus

Aberdeen - Flixbus/Megabus

St Andrews - X24/X59

You can check out Google Maps or the individual bus companies’ website for more information on bus routes and tickets.
I started the day with a walk through Pittencrieff Park then walked up to the Abbey which is where some of Scotland’s great kings and queens are laid to rest, including Robert The Bruce. 

Then I had a delicious breakfast at 269 Vegan where I had the vegan benny and a lavender latte. 

After breakfast, I walked a few minutes to Carnegie Library which has a free museum and art gallery as well as lovely views of Dunfermline. I would definitely recommend visiting while in the city.

After the library, I walked around the city for a bit and then took the bus 8A to Culross.

I loved walking around and admiring the well preserved buildings and cobbled streets and you might recognise some of them from the popular tv series Outlander. 

I walked up to the Abbey and walked around the ruins of Cistercian monastery of the 1200s which was home to monks and lay brothers. 

Culross Palace was closed for the winter so I didn’t get a chance to visit but it’s open again from April so I will definitely be back to visit.

I went to Bessie’s Cafe for a chai latte and waited for the bus back to Dunfermline.

Dunfermline makes a great base for other day trips by bus around Fife, including Fife East Neuk fishing villages, North Queensferry, St Andrews, Falkland, Lochore Meadows Country Park, Lindores Abbey Distillery, and so much more, but as I mentioned at the start, you can also get to these places from other locations in Scotland. 

Have you visited Fife yet?

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Edinburgh Christmas Guide | Things to do and see

One of my favourite times of year to visit Edinburgh is during the Christmas holidays as everything looks extra magical. I haven’t experienced a winter destination since last February as I have been travelling around SE Asia and then Europe during summer and I just got back from a surf trip in Portugal. So last week in Aberdeen, I wrapped up in warm clothes, grabbed my camera and headed to Union Square Bus Station. In this post, you can find out what I was up to in Edinburgh and hopefully get some ideas of things to do and eat while visiting.

This is blog post is part of a paid partnership with Citylink, however all opinions are my own

GETTING THERE

I’ve been travelling around Scotland without a car for years and Citylink is the main company I’ve been using as they have so many routes, including direct buses from Aberdeen to Edinburgh. I got an early morning bus from the Granite City and arrived in Edinburgh by 10am so I had the whole day to explore. I then took the bus back to Aberdeen at 19:30 but there are much later departure times available too.

THINGS TO DO AND SEE

Edinburgh Christmas Market

The Christmas Market is located in Princes Street Gardens and has something for everyone. From traditional market stalls to fun rides to delicious food, you can spend hours here and definitely not get bored.

I decided to go up the 80-metre high Starflyer for the first time, and wow…it was quite scary. BUT it was also so much fun and the views are amazing, especially during sunset.

If the Starflyer is not for you, the big wheel is a more relaxed ride and you still get to see the beautiful Edinburgh views.

Christmas decorations and lights

I absolutely love the Christmas decorations around the city so here are some of my favourites:

The Dome

The Edinburgh Grand

St Andrew Square

The Ivy

Brewhemia

The Mound

The Witchery by the Castle

Victoria Street

Cold Town House

Makers Market in Tron Kirk

Stockbridge Market (on Sundays)

Christmas gift shopping from the Cockburn Street boutique shops

If it starts raining, there are plenty of indoor things to do including shopping at St James Quarter and free museums such as National Museum of Scotland, Museum on the Mound, Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Museum of Childhood, as well as loads of cosy cafes. Some of my favourite coffeeshops are Black Medicine, Holy Cow, Hideout, and Foodstory.

FOOD

I was so excited to see so many vegan friendly options at the Christmas Market and I couldn’t decide what to get so I tried a few different things:

Massaman curry with tofu from Ting Thai - I had this dish almost every day when I was backpacking around Thailand so I was delighted to eat it again and it was just as delicious. I also had a side of roti with chilli jam sauce - the perfect combo!

French galette with dark chocolate and banana - you can choose from many different toppings, including oreos, bananas, strawberries, milk or dark chocolate, lemon and sugar, and more.

Vegan hot dog - I couldn’t go to the Christmas market and not have a hot dog, especially when they have a vegan one with caramelised onions

Hot chocolate with oat milk - perfect to warm up in the evening

Have you visited Edinburgh during Christmas before?

Follow me on Instagram @marisa.vogiatzi for more Christmas content with Citylink

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A guide to Ninh Binh | Things to do, where to stay, vegan food options

Normally, it is recommended to spend 2-3 full days here but as I had a lot of work and video calls to do, as well as having a really bad cold, I decided to book a private room instead of a hostel, for 6 nights. So 4 of those days were just spent working in my room.

Getting there:

You can get a bus from many different places in Vietnam, including Hanoi, Halong Bay, Hue, Da Nang, Hoi An, Phong Nha, etc. I booked a bus from Hanoi through Bookaway which took around 2,5 hours and cost around £6, and they dropped me off at my homestay.

Where to stay:

I stayed at Hang Mua Homestay and I really liked it. The location was great, just 10 minutes walk from the Hang Mua viewpoint, plenty of restaurants nearby, and just a 20-minute cycle to Trang An. The room was clean and comfortbale, the family was friendly and helpful, and they have a swimming pool too as well as homemade food available to buy. For 6 nights, a double room with a view cost me £70 in total but you can definitely find cheaper accommodation such as hostel dorms for £3-5 per night.

What to do:

-Paddleboat tour in Trang An (250,000 VND - £8.80)

-Hang Mua Caves and Viewpoint (100,000 VND - £3.50)

-Hoa Lu Ancient Village

-Bai Dinh Pagoda

-Cuc Phuong National Park (50,000 VND - £1.70 entrance fee)

-Rent a bicycle and cycle around while enjoying the surrounding views

Where to eat (all have great vegan options)

-Chi’s Restaurant

-Tom Bop Bar

-Nha Hang Trang An 89

-Rose’s Gara Bar & Restaurant - this was my favourite place and ended up going for lucn or dinner almost every day. The owner, Rose, offered me food one night, after she had closed as there was nowhere else opened at that time, and cause she heard me coughing, she made me ginger tea. And then she drove me back to the homestay on her bike. On my last day in Nihn Bihn, she gave me a box of tea to take with me and she went to the pharmacy and got me medication for my cough! She was so helpful and kind to me, and the food was amazing with massive portions. So I would definitely recommend visiting, and if you do, tell her “hi” from me.

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A travel guide to Aberdeen City | Things to do

One of the reasons I used to love living in Aberdeen was all the things there are to do in the city and around. I am always so excited to be back in the city for work as well as to see friends. In this blog I am sharing some of my favourite places in Aberdeen City, including where to stay, places to visit and free things to do as well as places to eat.

AD - I was kindly invited by Park Inn by Radisson to stay for one night with breakfast on a gifted basis, however all opinions stated in this post are my own.

Where to stay

Located right in the city centre, Park Inn by Radisson is a great place to stay to explore the city while also having a quiet night away from the busy traffic. The rooms are clean, the beds are comfortable and the staff are friendly and welcoming. 

The buffet breakfast has continental as well hot food, including eggs, beans, mushrooms, sausages, cereal, soya milk, fruit, yogurts, tea and coffee, fruit juices, and more. 

While I was there, I also had dinner at their on site restaurant and the food was delicious. I had the vegetable wellington and my friend had a burger and we both enjoyed them.

Free things to do

There are tons of free things to do in the city and there is something for everyone, whether you are interested in nature, arts, history, architecture, or just want to relax. Here are some of my favourites:

-Art Gallery

-Provost Skene's House

-Mural trail

-Beach and Footdee

-Watch dolphins at Torry Battery

-Take a walk along River Dee

-Explore Old Aberdeen and Seaton Park

-Duthie Park and Winter Gardens

-Maritime Museum

-Cove Bay

Day Trips from Aberdeen

Although there are loads of places to visit in the city, there are also great bus links to the rest of Aberdeenshire, including castles, hiking trails in the Cairngorms National Park, fishing villages, whisky distilleries and more. You can check out my ebook about travelling Aberdeenhsire by bus here which includes more than 50 destinations you can visit,

You can also check out my Youtube channel and Instagram @marisa.vogiatzi for more content about travelling without a car.

Where to eat

Aberdeen is a great place for foodies and as a vegan, I absolutely love all the yummy options the city has to offer. Here are some of my favourite places, some are 100% vegan and some just have vegan options but you don't have to be vegan in order to visit or enjoy some of these places, they are loved by many locals and visitors.

-BioCafe

BioCafe is located at Rosemount Viaduct, and it's a refined sugar-free cafe with a huge variety of vegetarian, vegan and gluten free food. I especially like their hot dogs and waffles and colorful smoothie bowls.

-Roots

They have a food truck down at Aberdeen beach but they also do home deliveries. They have a variety of burgers, chicken wings, loaded fries and other yummy sides as well as dessert and milkshakes. Their Southern fried chick’aint, the roots signature loaded fries and the mac n cheese with bacon crumble are some of my favourites.

-Foodstory

Foodstory, which is located on Thistle Street, is a vegetarian cafe with tons of vegan food as well as gluten free options and they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s such a cosy cafe and they often have different events on such as live music and workshops.

-The Vegan Bay Baker

The Vegan Bay Baker is located on Castlegate and I usually get some pastries for  breakfast before heading down to the beach for a walk. I post about his pastries all the time on Instagram, and the doughnuts are definitely the best doughnuts I’ve ever had and I’m sure everyone who has tried them will agree. He has some amazing products such as yumyums, bread, butteries, shortbread,  sausage rolls, savoury pies and so much more and they’re all vegan. 

-Cup

They have a huge collection of teas, and other hot drinks and they have plenty of vegan options on their menu. They are located right in the city, just off Belmont Street. And they also have the cutest decor.

-Revolution de Cuba

Revolution de Cuba which is on Belmont Street, has amazing Latin inspired food and again, many vegan options and loads of gluten free ones as well. And of course, their cocktails are incredible and it’s always a fun atmosphere and the staff are friendly and welcoming.

Getting there

There are a few different ways to get to Aberdeen without a car from many parts of Scotland. You can get a Megabus for as little as £4.99 from Edinburgh, Fife, Glasgow, Inverness, Dundee, and Perth and it drops you off at the bus station at Union Square. You can also get the train from most of the places mentioned above.

Once you are there, it’s a very walkable city but it is also very easy to get around by bus. You can check out FirstBus website for more information on the bus routes, times and ticket prices.

Have you visited Aberdeen before? If so, what was your favourite place?

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3 places to visit from Aviemore without a car

I visited Aviemore for the first time for my mum’s birthday for a couple of days in November and had a great time exploring the surrounding area. Since I don’t drive, the past few years I have been exploring Scotland by public transport and it’s definitely possible to get to many stunning places without a car, including the isles, castles, fishing villages, hiking trails, etc.

To get to Aviemore, you can get a Megabus from a few different places in Scotland, including Edinburgh, Fife, Perth, Glasgow, Inverness, etc. for as little as £5. I got the Megabus from Halbeath P&R and it took about 2,5 hours. Once you are there, there are loads of beautiful places to visit by foot or by bus. Here are the 3 places I visited while I was there:

Loch Morlich

You can get bus 37 from outside Aviemore train station towards Glenmore and get off at the Visitor Centre. The bus journey only takes 15 minutes and the return ticket costs £3.80. Once you’re at the visitor centre, Loch Morlich beach is about a 5-minute walk.

An Lochan Uaine (Green Lake)

Get the same bus and get off at the same stop as mentioned above, and from there it’s about an hour walk. You can get more information at the visitor centre about the trail. While you are there, you can also visit Loch Morlich in the same day.

Loch An Eilen

Walk around 25 minutes from Aviemore to Rothiemurchus and then follow the signs for another 40 minutes to Loch An Eilen. You can also stop by Lochan Mor on the way.

Have you visited any of these locations before? If not, would you add them to your list?

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8 Truths About Being a Digital Nomad

Working online and travelling the world full time sounds like a dream (and it is!) however it is not always as perfect and easy as people think it is. Here are 8 truths (and explanations) about being a digital nomad.

1. Lack of self motivation and self discipline

When you are not surrounded by coworkers and your boss, it can sometimes be hard to stay motivated and do work, especially when you are in a new place and just want to explore! However, it is important to schedule your work in and actually get it done in order to explore and travel more.

2. Most of the times you will be working in a room/on bed and not on the beach

Seeing all these photos online of people working on the beach or by the pool looks incredible however it is unrealistic. 99% of the time you can’t see the screen because of the sun and you risk getting sand in the keyboard.

3. Some people do not understand that you are working and think that you are on holiday all the time “You’re so lucky” ”When you get a real job” “Some of us are actually working”. Sometimes it’s hard to not get affected by people’s opinions especially when you’ve worked really hard to get where you are and they do not see the whole picture (only the parts where you are lying on the beach or on a plane to a new destination). But it’s important to remember that it really doesn’t matter, because you are happy and YOU know you’ve worked (and continue working) really hard so you deserve it.

4. Not seeing family as often (miss you mum)

Being away for long months and missing important events such as birthdays, weddings, graduations, etc can be hard. Luckily though there are Skype calls and messenger which makes it a bit easier. And when you finally get to see them, it makes it even more special.

5. Fomo (Fear Of Missing Out) when meeting other travellers who are solely there for holiday

It’s hard to say no when they invite you to join them on a day trip or a night out. I always try to keep to a schedule and get all (or most)of the things done in the morning so I can have the rest of the day for activities and then do some more work in the evening. Other days of course need a whole day of work and some days are more flexible. It’s important to have a balance between work and fun/travel.

6. You physically can’t work from “anywhere in the world” as you literally need wifi to work

I’d love to work from a remote little island or with a little cabin surrounded by mountains, but it’s not alway possible. Sometimes we have to settle for a location that has the infrastructure, which is usually also beautiful and fun!

7. Not always steady/secure income depending on what you do for work

This of course depends on what you do for work, but if you are self employed especially, it can be quite stressful being on the other side of the world relying on the internet to make a living.

8. Your day to day life becomes a huge effort

What I mean by this, is that simple things that you do at your home, such as taking the bus or going food shopping, can be a bit more tricky when you don’t know the language or has a completely different system. It can be tiring without even realizing at first, when you are communicating in a different language all day, using a map to get around and figuring out the local currency. Every time you go to a new place, you have to figure out all the new ways of life, from using the public transport to buying a new sim card.

After all these years of working every single day towards this and dreaming of working remotely and travelling, I am SO grateful for this life I have now. But there are some negatives that people might not realise when looking at photos and videos.

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Glasgow Winter Guide | Things to do and where to eat

AD | Last week I had the chance to explore Glasgow with People Make Glasgow for a couple of days and did so many fun things, so here is a mini travel guide with the places I visited.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

Getting to Glasgow is very easy, even without a car. You can get the bus or train from most places in the UK. Once you are there, it’s a very walkable city but you can also easily get around with the Glasgow Subway

WHERE TO STAY

I stayed in the Ibis Styles Hotel which is right in the centre, just by George Square. The rooms were comfortable and clean, and I absolutely loved their decor! Their breakfast buffet was also delicious, with loads of different options.

THINGS TO DO

-City Centre Mural Trail

-Britannia Panopticon

-Sharmanka

-Kelvingrove Art Gallery

-Walking tour and whisky tasting

-Glasgow Green

-Shopping

-City Chambers

-The Cloisters at the University of Glasgow

-Glasgow Gallery of Modern Art

-Live music

WHERE TO EAT

The Glasvegan

Red Onion

Cup Tea Rooms

Outlier

All these places had a big variety of vegan options as well as gluten free options.

Which place would you like to visit first? 

The Hermitage in Dunkeld without a car | Travel Guide

This magical forest is located in Perthshire and is part of the @nat . There is so much to see and do, and is a great place for family days out as well as peaceful solo trips.

GETTING THERE

You can get to Perth by bus or train from many locations including Fife, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Inverness, etc. Once you get to Perth, you can get the bus 23 from Mill Street and the journey takes around 40 minutes. Get off at “Rose Cottage” and follow the sign to The Hermitage. Alternatively, you can get off at Dunkeld so you can explore the town a bit too and then walk around 30 minutes to the forest.

THINGS TO DO

-Ossian’s Hall of Mirrors

-Coin Stump

-Ossian’s Cave

-Falls of the Braan

-Pinecone Viewpoint

-Torryvald Viewpoint 

-River Braan Walk

-Dunkeld Town

-Beatrix Potter Garden (about a 30-minute walk from The Hermitage)

You can check out National Trust for Scotland for more information about things to do as well as Walk Highlands for walking trails

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The Gailes Hotel & Spa in Irvine | REVIEW

I was kindly invited by The Gailes Hotel & Spa for a complimentary stay, however all opinions are my own and will never recommend somewhere that I don’t truly love!

As someone who’s been working long hours every single day for the past few years on their business, this relaxing spa break was much needed. Here is some information about the hotel and my experience.

GETTING THERE

The hotel is located in Irvine and you can easily get there even without a car. You can get bus X77 from Buchanan Bus Station in Glasgow to Prestwick and then bus 585 to Marine Road which takes just over an hour in total. Or you can take the train towards Ayr from Glasgow and get off in Irvine and get the bus 585 to Marine Road.

SPA

There are loads of different options at Si!Spa whether it’s a day spa or a spa break package like we had.

Before our treatment, we got to enjoy the thermal suite as well as the outdoor hot tub as well as a hot chocolate and cookie, and I was pleasantly surprised when they brought me a vegan one!

Then I had the deep cleansing back treatment and my friend had the inner beauty facial which we both absolutely loved. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so relaxed before

FOOD

-For dinner we ate at the coastal themed restaurant in the hotel, and started with some delicious cocktails (would definitely recommend the Pear Droptini!). Then Petra had mussels for starters and for a main she had the fillet of salmon, and I had the vegetable tempura and Thai green curry.

-For breakfast, there was a lovely continental buffet as well as hot breakfast with plenty of vegan options too

There are loads of other food options on the property, including afternoon tea and Sunday lunch.

THINGS TO DO NEARBY

-Just a 20 minute walk from the hotel, you can get to the beach and walk into Irvine centre from there. It was a lovely morning walk after breakfast and then we took the train back to Glasgow.

-Irvine harbour is beautiful as well as the little streets and different cafes

-From Irvine, you can take the bus and go on loads of different day trips. From hiking, to castles, there’s something for everyone. You can also get the ferry across to Isle of Arran from Ardrossan.

The rooms were clean and comfortable, everyone was very polite, friendly and attentive, and throughout the property, there was a peaceful and relaxing vibe. The perfect place for a girls trip or a romantic getaway.

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5 day trips from Rethymno by bus

Rethymno is a beautiful city on the island of Crete and there is lots to do within the city but it also makes a great base to explore the island, even without renting a car. In this blog post I am sharing with you 5 day trips that you can take from Rethymno without a car. There are of course many more places to visit but these are some of my favourites. You can get the buses from Rethymno Bus Station and you can find out more information about the times, prices and routes on the KTEL website here.

Patsos Gorge and Kourkoulou Winery

Patsos Gorge or Agios Antonios Gorge is a 5km gorge surrounded by greenery and is famous for the temple of Saint Antony which is located in a cave. There are a couple of different hiking trails with natural springs and little waterfalls on the way. There is also a viewpoint which you can find by following the signs in the gorge. There is also a restaurant at the start of the gorge with a childrens play area and some farm animals.

When I lived in the wine country, Napa Valley in California, I fell in love with wine. I went wine tasting every weekend and when I visited Crete, I wanted to try the local Cretan wine as wine tourism in Greece has been growing rapidly in the past few years. Wine production in Crete has a long history and there are many historical vineyards on the island. Wine-making is a tradition for locals and there are many wine related activities each year. Even though wine in Crete has been here for a very long time, wine tourism has only recently started to emerge. Located in the heart of the Cretan mountains, about 22km from Rethymno, Kourkoulou Winery is a new family-run winery and is located a few minutes walk from the Patsos Gorge. 

With breathtaking views of the mountains and gorge, you can take a tour of their vineyards and winery and taste their exclusive Cretan wines. You can find their prices and different tour options on their website here.

Preveli and Plakias

Famous for its palm forest and tropical vibe, Preveli is on the south side of the island about 45 minutes by bus. To get to the beach, you have to walk down some steps so make sure you wear comfy shoes as it can be quite challenging in flip flops. The view on the way down is stunning and has great photo opportunities. Once you’re down at the beach you can take a stroll through the Palm Forest which is at the exit of Kourtaliotikos Gorge. You can also swim in the Grand River (Megalos Potamos) which flows through it and admire the small waterfalls that are dotted around. There is a canteen there where you can get food and drinks and there are also bathrooms, however there are no sun beds or umbrellas. To get there you can take the bus from Rethymno bus station which costs 5 euro and it leaves you at the top of the road. Then you follow the road to the start of the trail/steps which takes about 5 minutes walk and then down the steps for another 10 minutes. Please keep in mind that there is no shade on the way there so make sure you bring a hat and plenty of sun lotion.

After Preveli, you can either take the bus back to Rethymno or stop in Plakias. Plakias is a quiet seaside town with clear water, and restaurants overlooking the sea and surrounding cliffs which makes it a perfect place to eat after swimming in Preveli.

If you’ve more time, you can also visit Kalypso Beach which is a 10-minute drive from Plakias. Unfortunately there is no direct bus but once you get to Plakias you can get a taxi for 8 euros and it is definitely worth it! The water is very clear and you can also scuba dive there. There are also two infinity pools that are part of Kalypso hotel but you can use it even without being a hotel guest, by paying 10 euros for the sunbeds.

For more beaches in Crete and how to get there without a car you can check out my blog post here.

Georgioupoli and Lake Kournas

Georgioupoli is a village at the mouth of Almiros River, around 45 minutes from Rethymno by bus. It’s famous for its little church out in the sea which you can get to by walking across the rocks. Just make sure you go when there is low tide as the rocks can get quite slippy. There are loads of restaurants and cafes on the beach road as well as by the river. You can also rent a paddle boat to go up the river. You can get the bus from Rethymno Bus Station for 3 euros one way.

A nearby attraction for many people is Lake Kournas, Crete’s only freshwater lake. There are no direct buses however you can either walk to it from Georgioupoli which takes around 50 minutes or you can take the little road train which costs around 5 euros.

The little train  also goes to Argyroupoli, a beautiful historic village known for its natural springs and monuments from the Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian periods.

Arkadi and Margarites

Arkadi is an Eastern Orthodox Monastery, located on a plateau with stunning views, about 23km from Rethymno. It became one the most important symbols of liberation in Crete during the Turkish occupation when the Cretan chose to sacrifice themselves by blowing up the gunpowder room rather than surrender.

The monastery is quite big so you could spend hours walking around and the ticket price is 3 euros. The history is very interesting and I think everyone should visit at least omncve while on the island. Please keep in mind that because it is a sacred place, everyone should have their knees and shoulders covered. I usually wear a long skirt or dress (or long trousers) that cover my knees and a thin scarf that I can put over my shoulders while I’m there. 

There is also a cafe with some food and drinks, and has stunning views over the gorge and surrounding olive trees.

If you have time, you can take the bus to Margarites Village which it’s famous for its many pottery studios. There are loads of things to do so it’s definitely worth a visit. It’s one of my favourite villages on Crete as it is so beautiful and unique. You can read my travel guide about it here about things to do there.

Mpali

Mpali has quite a few different cove beaches surrounded by cliffs and greek restaurants with beautiful sea views.

You can get the bus towards Heraklion from Rethymno Bus Station for 3.50 euros and it takes around 35-45 minutes to get there.

There are of course many more day trips you can take from Rethymno but these are just some of my favourites. It’s definitely possible to explore the island without renting a car and you can save a lot of money this way. Just make sure you check out the times of the last bus back before leaving so you can plan accordingly. 

If you ever visit somewhere because of my work, I'd love to hear about it! You can find me on Instagram @marisa.vogiatzi where I post daily travel content about solo and budget travel, travelling by public transport since I don’t drive, and about working remotely as a digital nomad.

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A guide to Oban without a car | Things to do

Oban is a town situated on the west coast of Scotland and is also known as the gateway to the isles. It’s a great place to use as a base to explore the isles but it also has a lot of things to offer within the town. In this blog post I am sharing with you how to get there by bus, where I stayed, and things to do within Oban and around.

How to get there

You can get a Citylink bus from Glasgow Buchanan Station which takes around 3 hours. I paid £26.90 return but the price can go up or down depending on how far in advance you book it. 

Where to stay

You can stay in Backpacker Plus which is in an old church, from £24.50 in a shared dorm or £33.50 for a private ensuite room. Prices include free continental breakfast (cereal, toast, peanut butter, jam, butter, juice) and unlimited tea, coffee, and hot chocolate. It’s located about a 10-minute walk from the ferry terminal as well as the train and bus terminals. If you don’t want to stay overnight, you can also just go to Oban for a day trip from Glasgow by bus.

Things to do

• McCaig’s Tower

• Dunollie Museum, Castle and Grounds 

• Oban War and Peace Museum

• Ganavan Sands

• Oban Whisky Distillery

• Pulpit Hill

• Take the ferry to one of the isles (Kerrera, Lismore, Mull, Iona, Seil, etc) You can read my blog post about Isle of Mull and how to get around it without a car.

• Oban is referred to as the seafood capital of Scotland so there are plenty of places to try out seafood and other dishes.

• Check out the independent businesses for souvenirs and gifts

• Dog Stone

• Stop for some hot chocolate and cake at Oban Chocolate Company (Vegan options available)

• Walk along the seafront and admire the views of the islands

• Take a wildlife boat tour

• Take a day trip to Inveraray

Have you visited Oban before? Let me know in the comments below if you any questions. You can follow me on Instagram @marisa.vogiatzi for daily travel content about solo and budget travel, travelling by public transport since I don’t drive, and content about working remotely as a digital nomad.

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A guide to Margarites Village in Rethymno, Crete

Margarites Village is near Rethymno town, and it’s famous for its many pottery studios. It’s definitely one of my favourite villages on Crete. In this blog post I am sharing with you how to get there without a car, and things do while there as well as a suggested itinerary so you can visit a couple other places on the way too.

How to get there

You can get the bus from Rethymno Bus Station and it’s about a 50 minute journey. The bus only runs a few times a day so make sure you check the bus times on e-ktel before going.

Things to do

Walk around the village, looking at all the old buildings

Watch the artists make the pottery

Buy a pottery souvenir

Go raki tasting

Walk up to the monastery and admire the views of the village and the surrounding mountains

Have lunch at one the tavernas for traditional Cretan food

Suggested itinerary

The bus stops at a few other places on the way so you can visit 2-3 of them in a day. I would definitely recommend visiting Arkadi Monastery, Ancient Eleutherna, and then ending up in Margarites village.

As I mentioned before, this is one of my favourite villages as it is so beautiful and unique. It makes for a perfect day trip from Rethymno whether you have a car or not. If you decide to visit, I’d love to know on Instagram @marisa.vogiatzi or comment down below about your experience or if you haver any questions.

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Isle of Mull Without a Car | Full Itinerary

In this blog post, I am sharing with you how to do Isle of Mull without a car, from how to get there to getting around while on the island to what to do and see. I went with my mum and as this was a last minute trip, we couldn’t find accommodation on the island so we stayed in Oban and did a day trip to Mull which still gave us enough time to see a lot of island by public transport. I have also written a full day itinerary with detailed bus times below in the end of this blog post.

Getting there

You can get a Citylink coach from Glasgow Buchanan Station to Oban and the journey takes around 3 hours. the ticket cost me £26 return, however the price may change depending on when and how far in advance you book. From Oban you can get the CalMar ferry to Craignure on Isle of Mull for £7.80 return.

Where to Stay

We stayed in Backpackers Plus hostel which cost £24.50 per night for my bed in a shared dorm and my mum got a private ensuite room which cost £33.50 per night. Both room prices included free continental breakfast (cereal, toast, peanut butter, jam, butter, juice), and unlimited tea, coffee, and hot chocolate. This was her first time staying in a hostel and really enjoyed it. I love the hostel and would definitely recommend staying here.

If you would like to stay on the island on a budget, Hostelling Scotland offer dorms from £18 a night (private rooms available) and is located in Tobermory, facing the harbour.

Getting around while on the island

The main bus operator on the island is West Coast Motors and you can get a day ticket for £18 which will allow you to use the ticket as much as you want within 24 hours. Once you get off the ferry in Crainure, you can get the bus to Tobermory and from Tobermory you can take the bus to Calgary as well. Alternatively, you can get the bus from Craignure to Fionnphort and take the 10-minute ferry to Iona.

When we got to Tobermory around 9am, we spent a couple of hours there. We had some breakfast at Tobermory Bakery, I had the vegan vegetable pasty and my mum had the pain au chocolat and then walked up to Argyll Terrace street where we got a view of Tobermory from above.

We also walked to Tobermory Lighthouse which took around 40 minutes and the sea and forest views were beautiful along the way. 

Another walk which is often recommended but didn't do this time, is Aros Park and Aros Waterfall. You can check the walk out on WalkHighlands. We wanted to visit The Mull Museum but unfortunately it was open between 11:00-15:00 but we had to catch the bus to Calgary at 11:15.

We got the bus from the same spot we got off from Craignure and got the bus that said “Calgary”. The journey took around 50 minutes and the views were absolutely stunning along the way so the time went by quite fast. We got off at the last stop, right next to Calgary Beach and the bus driver told us that she will come back in a few hours and she will stop anywhere on the side of the road if we waive her down. We had some lunch on the beach (gotta love a Tesco meal deal!), and then walked around for a bit, taking photos. 

Just up the road from the beach, you can find Calgary Art in Nature, a beautiful woodland walk with art sculptures. 

We walked through it and ended up at their art gallery and cafe. As we had some time to wait for the bus, we had some tea in the cafe’s courtyard. They also have some lovely cakes and savory food available. 

The bus times work out in a way that you are in Calgary area from 13.05 until 16:35 so it gives you plenty of time to explore Calgary Beach and see Art in Nature, as well as walk to Langamull Beach if you want, which takes around 30-40 minutes to walk one way.

We then took the bus to Tobermory where we had about an hour to wait for the bus back to Craignure for the ferry. We walked around a bit more and get some postcards from the gift shops, and then popped in Tobermory Stores. I was pleasantly surprised at how many vegan options they had. The staff were very friendly and helpful and showed me what vegan food they have, from pies and quiches to vegan cheese and salads to vegan cheesecake! I got the Mediterranean Vegetable Tart and the Butternut Squash, Feta, and Spinach pasty and they were delicious. I had to run back before the bus came to get another pasty to have for lunch the next day because it was so good.

At 18:10 we got the bus back to Craignure which got us in at 19:00. The ferry back to Oban was at 19:25 so we didn’t need to wait long.

Full day itinerary - All the information in this blog post was correct at the time of being published. Do check on West Coast Motors website for the most up to date information on bus numbers and timetables.

These are just some of the many things you can do and see even without a car on Mull. Some other things include going to Dervaig (same bus that goes to Calgary), or exploring Loch Peallach and Meadhoin, or going to Fionnphort and getting the ferry over to Isle of Iona. There are also loads of different boat trip tours you can take from different parts of the island, including  wildlife tours, tours to Staffa and Fingal’s Cave, Isle of Iona, and so much more!

If you stay on the island overnight, you can perhaps have more time to do more walks and explore more parts of the island as well as visit Iona (will definitely come back for that!). However, I think even going for the day like we did, it’s very easy to get around by bus and have enough time to see a lot. I hope you found this guide helpful and if you are not sure about visiting Isle of Mull without a car, this is your sign to do it.

If you ever visit somewhere because of my work, I'd love to hear about it! You find me on Instagram @marisa.vogiatzi where I post daily travel content about solo and budget travel, travelling by public transport since I don’t drive, and generally travelling around Scotland and beyond.

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A day trip to Abbotsford House without a car

Abbotsford is the home of Sir Walter Scott, the 19th century novelist and poet. It’s located near Melrose, in the Scottish Borders and easily accessible even without a car.

Getting there without a car is very easy and straightforward. Take the bus X95 from Edinburgh Bus Station towards Hawick and get off at “Archies Walk” bus stop and from there follow the signs to Abbotsford, about a 16-minute walk. The bus company is Border Buses and a day ticket costs £8.40 which you can purchase through their mobile app. When you get on the bus, let your driver know where you want to go and they will be happy to help you with where to get off. 

The ticket costs £12.50 for the house, chapel and gardens or £6.50 for only the gardens. However, I definitely think it’s worth going into the house and chapel too as it’s very interesting to learn about it with their self paced audio tours.

There is also a gift shop where you can find loads of lovely souvenirs and gift ideas, as well as a cafe upstairs with gluten free and vegan options too. I had the vegan haggis roll and my mum had one with vegan sausages. We also shared a side of chips. There is also a little takeaway spot where you can enjoy your coffee and food at one of the picnic benches.

After your visit to the house, chapel and gardens, you can also explore the estate’s grounds with the way marked trails. I really enjoyed the walk along the river as it was very peaceful and it also gave me a different view of the house too.

Note: make sure you check the bus times coming back, as they many different on week days and weekends.

Would you like to visit this stunning house? Let me know in the comments below.

Follow my adventures on Instagram @marisa.vogiatzi

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A guide to Holbox Island on a budget

Holbox is a car-free island in the northern part of Quintana Roo, Mexico between the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico. I went there for my birthday with my partner for 3 nights and absolutely loved it! In this blog post I am sharing how to get there, where to stay, and things to do as well as some vegan-friendly places to eat.

How to get there

You can easily get there by bus from a few different locations. We took the ADO bus from Playa del Carmen which cost 334 pesos (around £12.80) and took around 2,5 hours to get to Chiquila. From there, you can take a ferry across to the island. The ferry company we used is called Holbox Express and it cost 220 pesos (£8.40) one way and it only took around 20 minutes. They didn’t let anyone take their suitcases or big backpacks with them, they just put them in front of the ferry all together, so make sure you take out anything you need on the ferry, e.g. water, hat, etc. The ferry terminal is located on the south of the island and it is only a few minutes walk to the centre.You can see the ferry times in the picture below but remember to check online nearer the time in case they have changed.

Where to stay

There are loads of different types of accommodation on the island, from hotels to hostels to glamping. We stayed right in the centre, at a hotel we found through Airbnb. You can check out through this link HERE. It is only a 2-minute walk to the beach (near the Holbox Sign) and it has a swimming pool too. That was my birthday present from my boyfriend.

Things to do

Rent a bicycle

One of my favourite things we did was bike around the island. We rented a bicycle for 150 pesos (£5) each for 12 hours from the hotel but I saw many places around the centre that rent bicycles for similar prices. You can also rent golf carts, however they are more expensive. Keep in mind that some of the roads are flooded or have massive puddles, especially if it has been raining the day before but it was still a lot of fun and that didn’t stop us.

Punta Mosquito

I’m sure you have heard of this place when looking to visit Holbox as it is one of the top attractions on the island. It is a big sandbank where you can walk in the middle of the water to get to it as the water is very shallow. It took about 2 hours to walk one way but that was walking in the water ankle deep (sometimes knee and even waist deep) the entire time. I also saw a starfish, which made me really happy.

You can also go with a bicycle by road to a certain point and then walk through the water to get to it. On the way back the water was a lot deeper so we had to put our bags on our heads to get back to land.

Playa Punta Cocos

Punta Cocos Beach is about a 30-minute walk from the centre or a 10-15 minute bicycle ride. There was only one bar there so it wasn’t too crowded and it had some hammocks and swings too. We walked a bit further up past the bar and enjoyed the beach and vegetation views in the background.

Watch the sunset and sunrise

One of my favourite things to do, wherever I am, is to watch the sunset and sunrise. When we first arrived, we checked into the hotel and went straight down to the beach and watched the sunset. Everyone was sitting down on the sand, there were loads of cute dogs greeting people, and there was live music playing in the4 background from a nearby bar. It was absolutely stunning and the atmosphere was super fun and relaxing. The next morning, on my birthday, I woke up around 6:30 and walked to the beach again but this time it was a different kind of atmosphere. Apart from a few fishermen, there was no one else about. The sea was calm, everything was so peaceful and quiet. The golden light slowly appearing behind the palm trees made me feel so calm. The seagulls and pelicans also added to the atmosphere. So yes, I loved both sunset and sunrise for different reasons, and I would recommend watching both while you are there.

Walk a rescue dog at Refugio Animal Holbox

Another thing you can do while you are on the island is volunteer at the animal rescue centre. It is open from 10:00-18:00 and you can help with walking, bathing, cleaning the kennels, playing with them, etc. I ended up walking Polaco, a lovely dog who unfortunately was run over and was stuck on the road for days unable to move. Luckily, Refugio Animal Holbox found him and helped him recover fully!

Walk around the centre

In the evening, it becomes lively with colourful lights and music everywhere and it felt really safe walking around at night as there were many people around and plenty of lights. However, if you walk a little bit out of the centre, there aren’t many street lights. There are loads of beautiful murals dotted around, so there are plenty of photo opportunities. The Holbox sign down at the beach is also quite popular on Instagram for photos.

Try the delicious food

I was pleasantly surprised at how many delicious vegan options there are. One of my favourite places which we ended up going 3 days in a row since it was so good, is Arte Sano, a vegan and vegetarian place. On my birthday, I had the vegan pancakes and my partner surprised me with some candles which was very cute, and he had an omelet. The next day I had the stuffed chilli poblano pepper with vegan chorizo and mushrooms, in a green sauce, and beans and James had vegan chorizo and veggie tacos. The staff were really polite and friendly, and the tables are in a cute garden surrounded by trees.

On one of the evenings, we went to Painapol and I had the vegan burger and added the vegan meatballs too cause I was starving, and it was so tasty! James had the linguine with shrimps and mussels and said he really enjoyed it. It had loads of vegan options as well as regular ones which was nice.

Another place I would recommend is a bakery called La Pinsa. We stopped there after biking around for a few hours and had the focaccia. And honestly, it was the best focaccia I have ever had! They also make pizza where you can buy slices of it and it looked amazing but it was not vegan so I couldn't try it.

Bioluminescence

To witness the bioluminescence phenomenon, it is recommended you go around from around June to January to see it the brightest but I have also heard that you can see it all year round as long as it’s not a full moon. Unfortunately we didn’t do this as it was full moon when we went and they say that it needs to be completely dark in order to see it. But it's definitely on my bucket list so hopefully one day I’ll get to see it.

I really enjoyed my time on the island and I can imagine myself staying there for months, waking up for sunrise and working from a cute vegan cafe, eating a smoothie bowl! Buut, the internet is not that great generally on the island, and as I rely on it for my job, I wouldn’t be able to stay long term there. However, the internet is good enough for messaging, emailing, etc just not for video calling.

I hope you enjoyed this blog post. You can also follow me on Instagram @marisa.vogiatzi where I post daily travel content about solo and budget travel, travelling by public transport since I don’t drive, and about my life as a digital nomad.

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A budget friendly guide to Bacalar, Mexico

Bacalar is a 42 km long lake and is located near Mexico’s border with Belize. They call it the Lake of Seven Colours and it’s honestly very easy to forget that it is actually a lake and not the ocean. It is also home to ancient stromatolites that are about 3,5 billion years old! This quickly became one of my favourite places in Mexico.

How to get there

You can easily get here  by bus from a few different places such as Cancun, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Merida, etc. We booked an ADO bus from Playa del Carmen to Bacalar which took about 4 hours and the ticket cost 438 pesos (around £16) one way. If you are booking from Playa del Carmen, make sure you check which bus station the bus leaves from as there are a few ADO stations. We got ours from Playa del Carmen Alterna which is near a Walmart. Make sure you book at least a day before as it was already full when we got on. On the way back, we tried to book last minute and there was no seat left on the last bus back so we had to stay an extra night.

Where to stay

We stayed for 1 night at a hotel called XO Bacalar Lakefront for £44 including breakfast. It’s about a 30 minute walk from the centre but it was a lovely place. It has a platform where you can sit right in front of the lake and enjoy the sunrise as well as swings and a ladder to go swimming. There is also a swimming pool. The staff were friendly, the room was very clean and I loved the lake view. The breakfast in the morning consisted of yogurt with fresh fruit (pineapple, watermelon, papaya) and granola, some toast, butter and jam, and  a coffee and orange juice.

The second night we stayed in a different hotel called Seyman Hotel, right in the centre for £41 which also had a swimming pool. The room was a lot smaller than the other one but was perfect for one night.

Things to do

Go for a swim

There are a few different public entries to the lake where you can go swimming. We found a great spot with a wooden deck with swings and hammocks and spent a few hours there. The water was very clear and great for swimming in. It was about 1,5 metres deep there. The place we went to was located in front of a restaurant called Catch.

Visit San Felipe Fort

The fort served its p[urpose of protecting Bacalar’s Maya community from pirate attacks. The walls were built with marine and volcanic rock. From there you can get some beautiful views of the lake. Entry fee is 50 pesos for tourists and 20 pesos for locals.

Take a boat tour

As the lake is so big, there are many places that you can only see and get to by boat. We booked a tour through Viator for £26 each and that included atour to a few different spots, such as the Pirate’s Canal, Bird island, the Black Cenote, and we got to swim in 3 different places. Beer and fresh fruit juices were also included in the price. We went past so many beautiful spots and the water was constantly changing colour, so we definitely understood why it’s called the Lake of Seven Colours.

Los Rapidos

I had seen this place online and I’m so happy that I got to visit. It’s a natural lazy river where you can walk up it and then float down and relax. It was so much fun floating down and admiring the surroundings! We were quite lucky as we met a lovely couple on the boat trip that were going there anyway with their rental car and offered to take us. Otherwise, we would have to take a taxi as there are no buses that go there. The entry is through a restaurant and it costs 150 pesos each and that includes a lifejacket plus 50 pesos for a locker.

Walk around the centre

Although the centre is quite small, there are loads of cute colourful streets as well as some tourist shops with handmade items such as jewellery, clothes, ornaments, etc. There are also some beautiful art murals around the centre too.

Try the food

There are loads of delicious options in Bacalar and I was pleasantly surprised at how many vegan options as well as gluten free options a lot of the restaurants and cafes had. On our first day we went to cafe called El Manati which was set in a lovely peaceful garden with wooden tables and cute little swings. They had loads of vegan options and I had a banana and almond milk smoothie and for food I had the pozole which is a mexican stew. The traditional one usually has some kind of meat in it, but this one had mushrooms and corn and it came with tortillas, avocado, lettuce and radishes. It tasted great!

Another place I enjoyed was a restaurant called Savora Bakhalal, where we went to in the evening and was located in the main square. I had a vegan burrito which was really tasty. I think next time I go, I’ll try the vegan ceviche.

Watch the sunrise

In the morning I woke up and headed down to the lakefront and the colours reflecting on the water were stunning. It was so peaceful and breathtaking. I would definitely recommend to get up early and enjoy the views.

Bacalar is one of my favourite places in Mexico and I enjoyed every minute of it. It was a lot quieter and less touristy than other places in Quintana Roo and everyone was very friendly. It’s a perfect place to relax, and explore the lake.

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A guide to Isla Mujeres, Mexico

Isla Mujeres, which means Island of women, is a small island located a few miles from Cancun. I went for 9 nights and got to explore the whole island. In this blog I am sharing how to get there, where I stayed and things to do as well as some of my favourite places to eat with vegan options.

How to get there

You can get the Ultramar Ferry from Puerto Juárez which costs 450 pesos (about £16.20) return and you can use the return within 6 months. The journey takes about 20 minutes and once you get there, the ferry terminal is in the centre.

Where to stay

There are loads of different options for accommodation, from luxury hotels to self catering apartments to hostels. The first two nights I stayed in the centre Hotel Isla Caracol which was a few minutes walk from all the restaurants and shops and the beach. For the next 7 days, I stayed at Casa Ka’an, located in the middle of the Island, which was great for exploring the east side of the island.

Things to do

Swim in the crystal clear water at Playa Norte

Go snorkeling

I booked through Isla Mujeres trips for £32, and that included 3 snorkeling locations (including the Underwater Museum), the gear, and lunch, and it was a great experience! Would definitely recommend it.

Explore the archaeological site at Punta Sur and take in the stunning sea views

The entry ticket cost 30 pesos (about £1) and it was defintely worth visiting. You can see the Ruins of the Ixchel Temple and walk around the nature reserve where the view are absolutely breathtaking.

Volunteer to be a “puppy hugger” or walk the cutest dogs at Isla Animals

Rent a golf cart or bicycle

I ended up just walking everywhere (about 2 hours to get from one side of the island to the other), however there are loads of companies that you can rent a golf cart or a bicycle from. 

Walk around and admire the colorful streets and buildings

Visit the view point at Capilla de Guadalupe (free)

Try all the yummy food

There are so many tasty options on the island, and I was pleasantly surprised at how many vegan friendly restaurants there are as well. Some of my favourite places (with vegan options) are Lola Valentina, Mango Cafe, Aroma Isla, Isla Burger, Cafe Isla, and Green Verde.

Taste some beer at Isla Brewing Company

Watch the sunset at Albatros Beach

Go on a night out and enjoy a cocktail with live music at one of the bars 

I had such a great time exploring this beautiful island and it’s definitely possible to do it on a budget. You can probably explore the whole island in a couple of days. But it was really nice to also have some chill days at the beach as well as work days at the accommodation.

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